What is hibiscus?
Often—and erroneously—described as a flower, the hibiscus we cook with is actually a collection of sepals (known as a calyx), the part of a flowering plant that protects the bud and supports the petal once in bloom. Before the plant flowers, the calyx resembles a pointed bud, holding the seed pod, but it unfurls as the flowers push through the pod.
Where does hibiscus come from?
Likely native to West Africa, East Africa, Southeast Asia, or Northeastern India, hibiscus goes by many names: bissap in parts of West Africa; karkade in North Africa (specifically in Egypt, Sudan, and South Sudan); rosela, rosella, grosella, and sorrel in Indonesia, Australia, and across the Caribbean and Latin America; mathi puli in Kerala; krachiap in Thailand; luo shen hua in China; and flor de Jamaica in Mexico and across North America.
While the deep red variety of hibiscus is the most common across the world, other colours exist, from beige to rose to yellow. One would expect the colour differences to produce marked flavour differences, but that isn’t the case. The flavour is similar except that the lighter-coloured varieties tend to be tarter and more sour, while the darker variants are fuller and more robust.
Hibiscus is the defining ingredient of Jamaican Christmas sorrel punch, where it’s paired with citrus, aromatics, spices, and, occasionally, rum. (The plant used to be available in the Caribbean only during that time of year, though it’s now harvested year-round.)
What does hibiscus taste like and what are some common ways to use it?
When I think of the flavour of zobo, I think of it as floral, tart, and sour, with notes of forest fruits. While it is edible fresh, it is most common to find it dried. You’ll often see it steeped in water to make tea or cooked into jams and jellies because it’s pectin-rich.
For drinks, you can enjoy it plain, sweetened, or unsweetened, or combine it with whole or ground spices (like cloves, cardamom, star anise, cinnamon); aromatics, like fresh or dried ginger; and with fruit juices and alcohol (think sangria). Most people sweeten hibiscus with sugar, honey, dates, fruit, and more. In Nigeria, sliced dried ginger, whole cloves, and fresh pineapple (skin, flesh, and core) are common additions.
How to make hibiscus tea for Spring Day
To prepare my calyxes for infusions, I first rinse them in a large bowl of cold water, swishing them around as I would with leafy greens, so any bits sink. Don’t let your heart be troubled as you watch the water darkening—the flavour will not be lost. I move them around and then lift them up and out into a container. If they still seem sandy, I’ll repeat this.
For my favourite version, I combine 1 cup cold-rinsed dried zobo with 2 litres (about 2 quarts) of water. I like to cold-soak this mixture for at least 2 hours, and as long as overnight, in a non-metallic container (because hibiscus is high in acidity, it could leach out metallic flavours). The soak deepens the flavour and colour. Once that’s done, in a large pot, I combine the hibiscus and the soaking liquid with ½ teaspoon of whole cloves and 3 to 4 slices of dried ginger, common in Nigeria.
When I’m out of dried ginger, I substitute with the same amount of fresh ginger, sliced ½-inch thick and bashed/bruised. I bring this to a boil, turn down the heat to simmer, and cook for 30 minutes. I turn it off, remove the calyxes with a slotted spoon, and reserve for another use. I then let the liquid cool to room temperature, after which I decant and bottle it. The infusion keeps in the fridge for a week.
I don’t cook my zobo with sugar because it speeds up the fermentation process and shortens its shelf life. Instead, I make a simple syrup—sometimes plain, often with ginger—and store it separately. When I want a drink, I combine both to taste.
To extend the deliciousness of an infusion, I’ll transform it into a syrup. I simmer 2 cups of tea with 1 scant cup of sugar, stirring till the sugar dissolves. I bring this to a boil on medium heat and then turn down to simmer for 5 to 8 minutes, till it’s reduced a touch and glossy. It will thicken as it cools. Sometimes I add in the spent calyxes (which I never discard) so they candy. Both the syrup and the candied calyxes make delightful toppings for pancakes, waffles, and ice cream. I’ll also swirl it into water, yoghurt, and porridge. Or, I’ll add it to a glass or flute and then top with whatever bubbly I’ve got: sparkling water, prosecco, and Champagne all work.
Where can you buy hibiscus?
You’ll find dried hibiscus in Nigerian, African, Caribbean, Mexican, and Latin American stores or sections by any of its popular names (it’s also available online). Most of the hibiscus available in North America comes from Nigeria and Jamaica. When I buy zobo, I seek out dried calyxes that have bright, uniform colour without mould or whitish patches that might indicate damp storage conditions. I also look at the bottom of the bags to ensure there aren’t sandy or stony bits.
There you have it, a multitude of things to do with hibiscus from drink to sauce to sugar to much in between. The first step, though, is stocking your pantry. Then decide what and how you want to explore.
This recipe originally appeared on Bon Appetit US.
